GFCI receptacles have two sets of contacts, line , and load. The Line side of the receptacle is used to power the device, while the load side is used to power other devices down the line. Because of this, if the first device trips all devices on the load side will not be powered as you have noticed.
But in a setup like this, you'll be required to have a GFCI receptacle at both outlets. The devices down stream are no longer protected by the first GFCI receptacle, because they are not fed by the load side of the device.
FYI: This is what it would look like if the receptacles were wired in series. This is the correct behavior.
You only need 1 GFCI outlet per circuit assuming it's at the beginning of the line and the rest of the outlets are loads. They are correctly wired in parallel - if they were in series, you wouldn't get the correct voltage at the other outlets when there is any type of load present. It is possible. Sometimes it's a no-brainer; say your fridge is on your kitchen appliance branch circuit perfectly acceptable. If the GFCI for countertop outlets trips while you're away from home, you don't want your fridge cutting out.
So, you can often keep the fridge running by strategically placing unchained GFCIs in the circuit around the fridge outlet, bypassing protection for the fridge. Same for the microwave. BUT, most devices, such as your DW and disposer those can be on the same branch as the countertop outlets IF the home was built or last reno'ed before require GFCI protection anyway along with all countertop outlets. Code does not specifically require everything downstream of an installed GFCI outlet to be protected by that GFCI outlet, and so technically, bypassing protection is allowed.
However, code does apply to individual outlets; any receptacle outlet within 6 feet of a sink, tub, toilet, shower or other "wet" area MUST be GFCI-protected either by having a GFCI outlet there, or having one upstream that has this outlet as part of its "load".
So, if bypassing GFCI at any given point would make any downstream outlet non-compliant, you'll need to either suck it up and protect the whole line, or install a second GFCI further downstream to protect the needed outlet. If you really do want it this way, it's accomplished by connecting both line AND load wires to the "line" terminals on the GFCI outlet. You will not be able to use the "load" terminals to connect wires as those will cut out when the GFCI does.
The best way to do this is to wire-nut the line and load wires together hot separate from neutral of course along with a third piece of insulated wire to connect to the GFCI terminal.
The following will also work but licensed electricians may cringe; firmly screw both the line and load wires onto the line terminal I see this all the time when working with daisy-chained switches in multi-gang boxes so it can't be THAT bad. This works perfectly fine if you use "EZ-Wire" GFCI outlets; they have a plate that clamps down with the screw to hold wires so you don't have to curl around the screw terminal. Most of these have holes or notches for two wires per terminal and they're very secure.
GFCIs come marked with two sets of terminals. One pair is marked LINE and the other marked load. Typically, you would connect the line voltage to the Line pair, and you would run from the load pair to any downstream outlets and or lights. The load pair of terminals is already protected, so you need not use GFCIs further down the chain. So, if the GFCI outlet is the first item in the chain, everything downstream will also be turned off in a fault situation As if the breaker tripped.
What you need to do in your situation is to pigtail wires in the box before it connects to the GFCI, and to run a cable to the next outlet, which will now be unprotected unless you also use a GFCI outlet. I believe the code says GFCI's are required within 6 feet from any sink. I go a bit further 9', with some common sense , to ensure that I can't touch the toaster with an 18 inch cord, with my 10" chef's knife while touching the sink.
I also have stainless steel appliances which look like an attractive ground to me, so I treat them as if they were sinks. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group. Create a free Team What is Teams? Before you start, locate the circuit breaker or fuse that controls the outlet you plan to replace and shut off the power to the circuit.
Plug a lamp, radio or the GFCI tester into the outlet to test for power and make sure it's off. Then unscrew and pull out the old outlet and count the number of wires in the box.
Yes, it can be done. My advice is to replace both receptacles with GFI and install a standard breaker. You get the same protection but more convenience. Can you wire a GFCI to a switch? The switch cable can also be wired without GFCI protection. If replacing an existing switch: Identify the switch you will be replacing and turn ON the load. How do you tell if an outlet is GFCI protected? Plug in the tester and push its test button.
If the power goes off, the GFCI is working. Press the reset button to restore power. Can GFCI outlets be too many?
There are too many appliances being protected by the GFCI. Sometimes tripping occurs when a GFCI circuit breaker is protecting multiple downstream receptacles. Can you plug a refrigerator into a GFCI outlet? In a dwelling unit residential , GFCI protection is only required for kitchen receptacles that serve the countertop surfaces.
I agree, it would be a better idea to have multiple GFCI receptacles on a single circuit. If they were redundant, I would call it out. Myth or not it does not add additional protection and can become a pain in the backside. If I discover it I note it. I think it would be extremely rare for more than one gfi to trip from the same event.
No I was not.
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